Category Archives: Travel New Zealand South Island

Travel in the South Island

Adventure Ride from Auckland to Milford Sound in 8 days

17th Sep 2013, Tuesday  (Before starting the Journey)

 

We went for a ride up to Mount Eden, Auckland after getting Sertao BMW bike from Experience Motorcycle handed over and we were just in time for our first sunset.

 

Day 1 – 18th Sep 2013, Wed (from Auckland to Tongariro National Park)

 

It was an exceptional sunny day for a good start of bike riding. After breakfast at Olaf Restaurant, Mount Eden, Auckland we started our adventure riding at 1030am. From Auckland, we took state highway 1 towards Hamilton. We were looking for Highway 22 route on the way. It took us quite some time to find out before giving up. We asked for direction at petrol station and we were lucky to meet friendly bikers to show us the direction. We started the off road riding at Pukekohe.

 

Highway 22 is indeed a recommended unsung scenic route to explore the true beauty of North Island. There is about 30km of adventurous gravel road in the journey. It was a slow and careful ride due to the bad surface, full of potholes and animals’ crossing. From highway 22, it leads back to main road and heading towards Tongariro National Park. Mount Ruapehu is looming in front of us as we were approaching the destination. The total journey takes about 435km and 9 hours of ride included breaks in between. It gets darker and colder as we reached at destination at 7pm. We were totally exhausted after this ride due to the weather. We checked in Plateu Lodge for a good rest.

 

 

Day 2 – 19th Sep 2013, Wed (from Tongariro National Park to New Plymouth)

 

At 730am, we continued our journey after packing. It was a cloudy day. We took Forgotten World Highway towards New Plymouth. 12km of the highway is unsealed road and there is no petrol station on the way. Therefore we filled up the tank before moving. The total 155km of adventure begins at Taumarunui and ends at Stratford. It follows ancient Maori trade routes and pioneering farm tracks, through ambitious historic settlements, untamed native bush and stunning natural scenery.

 

On the way, there is a detour along Moki Road leads to a 20 minutes walk to Mt Damper Falls. It is the North Island’s second highest waterfall and is the spectacular sight. Shortly after that, there is a single lane 180m long Moki Tunnel that was built in 1936 and is known locally as the Hobbit’s Hole.

From Forgotten World Highway, it merges to state highway towards New Plymouth.  On the way, we stopped at White Cliff for a short break

Walkway map at the entrance of White Cliff

 

The whole journey took about 380km and 6 hours to reach at destination. It was a heavy downpour when we reached at 6pm. We were lucky to have checked in Duck and Drakes Lodge by then. Following is the route map of Forgotten World Highway from Taumarunui to Stratford:

 

 

Day 3 – 20th Sep 2013, Thu (from New Plymouth to Wellington)

 

We departed at 9am for another 350km journey down to Wellington. When we left New Plymouth, it was foggy on the road. We have difficult vision and missed out some of the great views on the way such as Mount Taranaki.  However, the sky clears up in the afternoon. We were riding along the coastal route, taking state highway 3 towards Wellington passing Opunake and Wanganui on the way. We stopped at Wainui Beach for a break.

 

It was an easy ride and took us about 6 hours to reach at destination. It was windy and heavy downpour in Wellington as we reached. We checked in Kingsgate Hotel at 7pm.

 

Day 4 – 21st Sep 2013, Fri (From Wellington to Kaikoura)

 

We left the accommodation at 8am to catch ferry Interislander at 830am. It was drizzling in the morning. We checked in the bike at Deck 3 then chilled out at Deck 7.

 

There are lounges around which allow passengers to have rest and to dine while enjoying the views outside the ferry. It passes through Marborough Sound but it was a bad weather therefore vague visibility to behold the magnificent view around the islands. The journey took about 2 hours from Wellington to Picton.

After checking out the bike, we continued our journey and drove past Blenheim through state highway 1. It was a sunny day for a good start in South island. We stopped at Half Moon Bay for pictures.

 

It took about 5 hours from Picton to Kaikoura. At about 6pm, we reached and checked in Dolphin Lodge.

 

 

View from Balcony at Dolphin Lodge

Before night falls, we had a stroll along Kaikoura Peninsular and a walk around Kaikoura town center then discovered that there is a vintage car rally.

 

Day 5 – 22nd Sep 2013, Sat (From Kaikoura to Christchurch)

 

We departed to Christchurch at 10am and no back road this time. We drove past Cheviot and Waipara along the shoreline. We reached about 6pm just in time before the rain started. We checked in Jailhouse Lodge. This lodge used to be a female prison, which was built because of the overcrowding at Lyttelton.

 

Day 6 – 23rd Sep 2013, Sun (From Christchurch to Queenstown)

 

It was a great day to continue to the last town before heading to Milford Sound. We spent about 2 hours on bike service before continuing as it reaches about 1500km by then. From Christchurch, we drove down to Rangitata then taking highway 79 passing Geraldine towards Lake Tekapo.

Lake Tekapo is located at 42km west of Fairlie, with an altitude of 710m. The most striking thing about Lake Tekapo is its extraordinary colour in which the light reflected from microscopic rock particles suspended in glacial meltwater lends the water an ethereal opaque-aqua hue. We stopped at the well-known Church of the Good Shepherd, an enchanting little stone church built in 1935 as a memorial to the Mackenzie Country pioneers.

 

We also photographed the Collie Dog Monument that is about 100m to the east of the church. It was erected in 1968 by local sheep farmers to honour the dogs that make it possible to graze this harsh terrain. We reached at Lake Pukaki after about 20min from Lake Tekapo. It is just located next to each other but it is an unsung destination with no sign of tourist.

 

 

From there we continued towards Twizel and Omarama then Lindis Pass. It was getting dark as we arrived in Wanaka and had a break at Lake Wanaka for sunset.

From there we drove towards Queenstown through the back road. It was about 8pm when we reached at A-Line Heartland Hotel.

 

Day 7 – 24th Sep 2013, Mon (Queenstown)

 

We stayed another one more night in Queenstown to explore further. We had breakfast at Post Office Café.

 

After that, the first stop is Glenorchy, at the head of Lake Wakatipu 50km northwest of Queenstown. The scenic drive along Lake Wakatipu takes about 30km to The Wharf Shed. The lakeside drive passes Bob’s Cove, the best place to observe the lake’s seiche, a phenomenon which causes the lake level to fluctuate by around 150mm every five minutes.

 

The whole journey along the lakeside drive takes about 30minutes to reach The Wharf shed. The shed is originally built by NZ railway department as a goods shed for freight carried on the steamers between Queenstown and Glenorchy. There is a well-trained dog ready to play with tourists around the shed. The dog is smart to understand human, as it would play until you bid farewell. We manage to relax at the abandoned wharf under the sun. Then we proceeded to Moke Lake. The access is along the way but the it is about 20km gravel road.

 

We were in Arrowtown for sunset. The town still has the feel of an old gold town and retains the spirit of a living community with grocers’ shops, pubs and post office. After the short walk in Arrowtown, we proceeded for a dinner at Skyline by Gondola.

Day 8 – 25th Sep 2013, Tue (From Queenstown to Milford Sound)

 

From Queenstown, we took the steamboat, TSS Earnslaw to transport the bike across Lake Wakatipu to historic working station of Walter Peak. TSS Earnslaw is a magnificent vintage steamship believed to be the only coal-fired passenger- carrying vessel still operating in the southern hemisphere.

From there we continued on the Mount Nicholas gravel back-country road along the Western Shores of Lake Wakatipu with few ups and downs all the way through to Mavora Lake with 2 river crossings. There is no other food or drink along the way or petrol station. 20km after the second river crossing, we reached at Mavora Lake where we had a break.

Then we continued our journey towards Te Anau after Mavora Lake on state highway that took us about 30minutes of ride. It was about 6pm when we reached at Te Anau and had a break at Pop In Café next to Te Anau Lake.

 

The journey towards Milford Sound from Te Anau took us another 1 hour of ride. It is a scenic route along the way through Homer Tunnel passes Mirror Lake, the Chasm, Milford Sound National Park and water falls.

 

Finally, the adventurous riding ended at 730pm at Southern Discoveries accommodation!

 

New Adventures will follow, for sure, If the Adventure bug hugged you, you are hooked, it will be difficult to relax

Gertrude Saddle

Gertrude Saddle hike is the only day hike in Fiordland, which offers at the ridge free few to Milford Sound and the Tasman Sea. The track start to the right of the Homer Hut, a green post indicates the entrance into the Valley. There is a beaten track to the end of the valley, close to the end of the valley are stone markers visible, usually they are placed on top of boulders and always visible. The last 1.5 km’s are taking much more time than expected, it get very steep and the track leeds over exposed sections, the last 200m before you get to Black Lake you have to walk over a blank rock which could be a bit slippery after rain, extra caution required at this part. At Black Lake keep to the right once more walk up the granite slope this time there is a steal rope attached to hold on. From here the saddle is already visible and not to far away, keep orientation on the stone marker to get up to the Saddle. On top of the Saddle are 2 spots to pitch up the tent if you like to spend over night, I really enjoy camping up there awesome night sky and beautiful sun sets could be seen from here.

Cleddau Valley

The day started with sunshine what is not common in Milford Sound at this time of the year. I decided to go for a day walk into the Cleddau Valley, just around the next corner. A good starting point is the Blue Duck Cafe and Bar in Milford City, where food and refreshments are available for a day walk.

There is only one road which is going to the Cashem State Highway 94 back to Te Anau. There are many interesting stops on the way, I suggest to stop at Deep Water Baisin to take a close look to our rock lobster fishing fleet, Little Tahiti is not far away just opposite the quarry on the main road, few km’s up the road is the historical swing bridge.  The next stop will be the Cashem.

There start the walk into the Cleddau Valley, follow the round course as soon you reach the 2nd bridge, climb the fence and walk up stream, keep on the right sight of the river it is much easier to walk up stream, there is no marked route to the end of the valley.

I recommend to do this hike only if there was no rain for a few days and the water level in the river is very low. After heavy rain the river get a current stream it is impossible and unsafe to make any crossings.

The hike is not to underestimate and take from the Blue Duck return easily 9 h for 29km’s

Inquire first about the weather condition before heading out.

Harrison Cove

This trip was one of my day trips in Milford Sound to discover Harrison Cove where I spend the whole day on the beach to observe the wild live and find the remains of the former sealing station. Harrison Cove used to be one of the most busiest sealing station in New Zealand Harrison. Fure seal fat has been modified and was used to lighten streets in UK Cove, and the fure was used in the fashion industry, fure seal have one of the densest fure in the world and keep extreme warm. Harrison Cove  is named after Captain John Harrison which invented the first ship chronometer, he build his first longcase clock 1713 with the age of 20.

I refer to an article I found, John Harrison and the longitude problem – national museum to read the whole story about one of our greatest sailor and inventor in sailing.

Lake Marian

Lake Marian is a lake in the Darran Mountains in the hart of Fiordland National Park in the South of New Zealand.

If you have no transport option from Te Anau www.tracknet.co.nz is the best choice to get to the car park at the entrance to Hollyford Valley. From there it take a 1.5h walk to the lake, after around 20 minutes walk you get the first glimpse of the Marian Creek which is a good oportunity for a short photo stop.  From there on the track is well marked and sometimes you have to pass gravel pits. The tramping track is not very challenging, in dry conditions, after heavy rain it get very dirty on some section of the track just before you get out of the forest.

If you like camping in the nature this is the best lace to be.

 

Back road to Mavora Lakes and Te Anau

This tour takes usually 2 days if you stay one night at Mavora lakes, the second lake is nicer to camp than the first one, and is around 60km from Walter Peak station away, the whole road is gravel but in good conditions without potholes, in the high summer the temperature could reach easily upper 30th, water supply is very limited beside the road.

The second day is much easier 30 km gravel and the last 40 km tarmac, until Te Anau.

State Highway 94

The most spectacular Highway in New Zealand, summer like winter.

The New Zealand State Highway connecting the large Southland town of Gore with one of New Zealand’s most popular destinations Milford Sound. It also passes the significant townships  Te Anau is going through the Homer Tunnel.  The road also goes through Fiordland and crosses the Main Divide of the Southern alps. The whole road is 119 km long.

It is regarded as one of the most scenic roads in New Zealand, and with a peak elevation of 940m, also one of the country’s highest. However, the “Milford Road” part is also one of the more dangerous public roads in New Zealand, with injury crash rates around 65% higher than the rest of New Zealand’s network, and a fatality crash rate of almost twice average (per vehicle kilometre travelled), making it the third most dangerous section of New Zealand’s State Highway network